La Sportiva Finale vs. Mythos Climbing Shoes
Climbing shoes are an essential part of a climber’s gear, and choosing the right pair can make all the difference in performance and comfort. La Sportiva is a brand known for its high-quality climbing shoes, and two of its most popular models are the Finale and Mythos. Both shoes have been around for a while and have a loyal following, but which one is the better choice for your climbing needs? In this article, we will compare the La Sportiva Finale vs. Mythos climbing shoes, looking at their design, features, and performance, to help you make an informed decision.
La Sportiva Mythos
Climbing Shoe Type: Neutral
Last: Slip-lasted
Upper: Suede leather
Lining: No
Outsole: Vibram rubber
Footwear Closure: Lace-up
Weight (Pair): 1 lb.
The La Sportiva Mythos climbing shoe is a soft and comfortable shoe that has been around for a long time and is still popular. It is not a high-performance edging shoe but is great for all-day cragging or for those who value comfort over micro-edging. The unique lacing system keeps the shoe snug and it is ideal for cracks due to its “flat foot” position and narrow toe. The shoe is also good for smearing, although it would be better suited to Vibram XS Grip rubber. The shoe does not edge well and tends to get sloppy over time. The price is a bit expensive, but those who buy it tend to use it for a long time.
However, there are a few downsides to the La Sportiva Mythos climbing shoe. Firstly, sizing can be a challenge as the shoe stretches a lot and has a different toe position than most other shoes. It’s recommended to climb around in them or break them in if your shoes are too small. Secondly, the shoe doesn’t edge all that well and tends to get a little sloppy over time. Lastly, if you break a lace, re-lacing them can be a major project. So, the shoe stretches a lot and has a different toe position than most other shoes, making sizing a challenge.
What I Like: Great for cracks, comfortable, and can be worn all day long
What I don’t: Not the best at edging, can be tricky to size just right
La Sportiva Finale
Climbing Shoe Type: Neutral
Last: Slip-lasted
Upper: Leather/microfiber
Lining: 1.1 mm full-length LaspoFlex
Outsole: 5 mm Vibram XS EDGE rubber
Footwear Closure: Lace-up
Weight (Pair): 1 lb. 0.8 oz.
The La Sportiva Finale is a budget-friendly rock climbing shoe that provides good value for beginners and intermediate climbers. It features 5 millimeters of Vibram XS Edge rubber for enhanced durability. This makes it an attractive option for climbers who wear shoes frequently. The neutral sole design and lace closure make it comfortable for multi-pitch climbs and foot jams. However, the soft and unsupportive sole can lead to foot fatigue and limit edging power, making it less suitable for steep terrain and bouldery crack cruxes.
The shoe is not particularly sensitive due to the thickness of the rubber, but the soft sole through the mid-foot compensates to some extent. The shoe is ideal for beginners or those on a budget who want a decent-performing shoe with good durability. The shoe is not suitable for advanced climbers looking for high-performance shoes, particularly for steep terrain and pockets. Overall, the La Sportiva Finale provides a respectable performance and is an excellent choice for those looking for a bargain shoe that performs well.
What I like: Respectable edging and low-profile toe
What I don’t: Mediocre precision, subpar on the steeps, somewhat insensitive
Which one is right for you?
Choosing between the La Sportiva Finale and Mythos climbing shoes can be a difficult decision, as both are excellent options for climbers of all levels. Ultimately, the decision will depend on your individual preferences and climbing style.
If you prioritize comfort and versatility, the Mythos may be the better choice. They are known for their soft leather upper that molds to your feet over time, providing a customized fit. They also have a flat sole and moderate downturn, making them suitable for both beginner and intermediate climbers who want a shoe that can handle a variety of climbing styles.
On the other hand, if you value precision and performance, the Finale may be a better fit for you. They have a stiffer sole and more aggressive downturn, allowing for more precise foot placements on steep or technical routes. They also have a narrower toe box, providing more precision when edging on small holds.
Ultimately, the best way to determine which shoe is right for you is to try them both on and climb in them. Consider the types of climbing you do most often, the fit and comfort of each shoe, and any other factors that are important to you.
