Scarpa Origin vs. Force V Climbing Shoes
Climbing shoes are an essential piece of equipment. They provide the necessary grip and support to tackle even the most challenging routes. Two popular options on the market are the Scarpa Origin and Force V climbing shoes. While both shoes are designed to provide exceptional performance, they have some distinct differences that may appeal to different types of climbers. In this article, we’ll compare and contrast both of these climbing shoes to help you make an informed decision about which one is right for you.
Scarpa Origin
Climbing Shoe Type: Neutral
Last: Slip-lasted
Upper: Suede leather
Outsole: Vision rubber
Footwear Closure: Strap
Can Be Resoled: Yes
Weight (Pair): 14.4 oz.
The Scarpa Origin Climbing Shoes are an excellent choice for beginners who want a high-quality shoe that provides comfort and performance. The shoe is designed to provide all-day comfort with its flat-lasted construction and padded mesh tongue, which ensures cushioning for your feet. The suede leather upper provides a luxurious feel and attention to detail that is rarely found in shoes designed for new climbers. The shoe’s design is slip-lasted, making it more flexible and sensitive than a board-lasted shoe.
The Vision rubber outsole is 5mm thick and provides excellent traction on a variety of surfaces. The outsole is also durable, which means the shoe can withstand long-term use. The dual power-strap closure provides adjustability, making it easier to find the right fit. The relaxed randing helps ensure comfortable performance, which is essential when climbing for extended periods.
The updated fit with the PAF heel system provides added comfort at the widest points of your feet and heels. This feature is particularly beneficial for climbers who experience discomfort in these areas. The shoe can also be resoled, which means it can last for years if properly maintained. The Scarpa Origin Climbing Shoes weigh 14.4 oz, which is relatively light for a climbing shoe. The shoe’s weight makes it easy to wear for extended periods without causing fatigue.
What I like: Decent performance and a fantastic beginner shoe
What I don’t: Not the most durable one.
Scarpa Force V
Climbing Shoe Type: Neutral
Last: Slip-lasted
Upper: Suede leather
Outsole: Vibram XS Edge (4mm)
Footwear Closure: Strap
Can Be Resoled: Yes
Weight (Pair): 1 lb. 3 oz.
The Scarpa Force V climbing shoe is designed to provide comfort and support for long days in the mountains. It features a flat, low-aggression last and plush padding for a spacious fit, making it ideal for moderate climbs. While it may lack the sensitivity and shape needed for higher-end climbing, it excels on terrain that is a notch or two harder than what you would want to tackle in approach shoes. The Force V is a minimal and durable shoe, making it a solid beginner option for gym or outdoor use.
Compared to the older Force X, the Force V has a rounder toe box to accommodate a wider range of foot shapes and is slightly less stiff and more sensitive, which could improve its performance on technical terrain. The Force X, however, is still a reliable shoe, particularly for its stability on edges and performance in cracks. It is rigid and stable in the forefoot and has a well-positioned velcro closure for a snug fit. The shoe edges well on smaller and sloping holds and performs well on moderate vertical face climbs. It is also protective and comfortable for crack climbing but may require some ankle articulation for thinner cracks.
Overall, the Scarpa Force V and Force X climbing shoes offer value for their versatility, durability, and comfort. They are solid options for beginner to intermediate climbers who want a shoe that can handle moderate terrain without sacrificing comfort.
What I like: Durable, comfortable, and versatile
What I don’t: Lack of sensitivity
Which one is right for you?
The Scarpa Origin climbing shoe is a great option for beginners or those looking for a comfortable and versatile shoe. It features a flat profile and a relatively stiff sole. These two features make it suitable for bouldering, sport climbing, and trad climbing. The Origin is also known for its comfortable fit. So, it is a good option for you if you are thinking about longer hikes to climbing routes.
On the other hand, the Scarpa Force V is designed for intermediate to advanced climbers who prioritize performance. It features a more aggressive shape, with a downturned toe and a softer sole, which provides excellent precision and sensitivity for technical climbing. The Force V also has a narrower fit than the Origin, which may be beneficial for those with narrower feet.
